Thursday, January 6, 2011

Gun Control


A person goal of mine was has been to repeat Gun Control (V13ish) here in Halifax. The line is an old Nick Sagar test piece from sometime around 2003. It is a short, steep, blunt prow with virtually no holds. I remember trying the line years ago before Nick made the first ascent thinking that it was impossibly hard. The holds are seriously small. I tried the line this year for three short sessions as I would only get a couple of goes before my skin would be destroyed from the tiny crimps. Yesterday I got out of classes early and on my walk home decided the conditions were too perfect to pass up (sorry Krissy). I had had about 4 or 5 days off since HP 40 filled with only time driving and eating junk food. I had zero expectations to actually send it because of this. I think that no expectations really allows you to try without worry of an outcome - there is no disappointment or anxiety related to sending or not sending. I warmed up quick and went straight to "work". I made a couple of failed attempts that were no where near close to sending. No send today I thought...I took a rest, put my shoes back on, and climbed it seemingly effortlessly - weird. Second Ascent.

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