Monday, May 25, 2009

HOT!!!

















Today it is HOT, like 37C hot - without humidity! We got up late, had a slow breakfast, edited a short climbing video and looked at some of the photos we have taken the last few days. It is way too hot to do anything. At this moment we are sitting at Franchard Isatis waiting for the temperature to go down so we can hopefully climb this evening. You sweat just sitting here…Hopefully these temperatures will pass in the next few days so we can try and finish off some harder projects. If the weather doesn’t cool we will probably head to the mountains and higher elevations in search of better conditions.

Yesterday we climbed at the Cul de Chien area in Trois Pignons. There were so many climbers there it was crazy. The were actually a lot of older climbers there, probably in their 50’s and 60’s, many of whom could climb pretty hard. When I got on the Cul de Chien later in the afternoon there had to have been like 30 people around the problem. It was like climbing for an audience. The Cul de Chien is definitely one of the most fun problems I have ever done. I knew about the problem before getting France, but I did not realize the move you do to get out the roof using a heel hook involved a mono! So you go from a jug to a mono to a three finger pocket to a jug all over a perfect sand landing in the middle of the forest. I actually climbed it twice I thought it was so fun.

Now off for more relaxing and waiting for the temperature to cool down.

These are some photos from the last couple of days. Franchard Isatis, Cul de Chien, and Fontainebleau.

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Fontainebleau Video

Here is a short video from Font yesterday at Trois Pignons. Conditions were much better than the last couple of days. The first problem is Total Eclipse, an 8A+. It is really hard, the next good day I will be going back to try it or some variation of it. I was able to climb a 7B+ on the same roof relatively quickly and will be going back to do the sit start to it, it is called L'intergrale - 8A.

Friday, May 22, 2009

Europe - the first couple of days...
















We arrived in Paris on Tuesday morning after a few adventures…First, as we were packing to leave at Andrew’s

appartment the power went off. What was the problem, well, we were on the 12th floor and had enough camping/climbing gear and clothes with us for 3 and a half months. It was not fun lugging all that down 12 flights of stairs. After this we finally got to the airport to be told that we had to pay$300 extra for our luggage. After a long fight we got all but $30 back.

Tuesday morning we landed in Paris and picked up our car. We spent part of the afternoon in Paris and then headed to Fontainbleau to find a home for the next few days. After a lot of searching we finally found a place that I stayed at a few years ago when I was over climbing.

Wednesday we finally got to go climbing. We climbed mostly in Bas Cuvier - one of the more popular areas in Font. Most things felt really hard as it was quite hot here (25-30C).. It was a rude wakening to the footwork and technique required here.

Today we are headed out to climb in Font again - not sure what area, there are too many to choose from….oh and we got colds *cough*....and Ben has the biggest pad in Font...and nutella is cheap, there is no peanut butter and the coffee is amazing!

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Montreal - Animal Collective
























Friday, May 15 we packed up and drove to Monteal to see Animal Collective.

The show was great. There was actually a lot of people from Fredericton that attended.





Wednesday, May 13, 2009

8a.nu 2008 Year Book

Florian Muth took the photo seen here in Rumney, NH last summer and recently had it published in the www.8a.nu 2008 Year Book. You can see an electronic version of the book in the 8a.nu online shop. The photo is on page 61.

John Bowles is also in the book, being listed as the North American Speed Climbing Champion - only they listed him as being from USA???

Ben on Liv'in Astron - 5.14c - Rumney, NH

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

1138 Tower Road - Our sweet new apartment in Halifax


Looks sketchy on the outside....but is awesome on the inside.

Hardwood floors, fireplace, very, very cool.

Ours is the main floor with the big window in the photo.

It is just a short walk to Dal, and there is a sweet little coffee shop around the corner.

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Bouldering Videos and Baby Sitting Puppies




Krissy is all moved out
as of 1:30am on Friday
morning.












Little Riley.
About seven and a half
weeks old.
He is either going all out
playing or sound asleep
- no in between.















Riley and Krissy.













Unrelated, but worth checking out - Jill's Video of our bouldering trip to Bishop, California.
link: http://vimeo.com/4436177